This unit needed a deep cleaning session and service.It was disassembled and cleaned-up, with fluff etc vacuumed away. The sliders and volume control had switch cleaner applied to cure the crackles, and key contacts were cleaned. One bank switch was not working, so I removed, opened it, and cleaned it. The battery was replaced, and FCO applied for dropping into manual mode (I have never had one come in that had this dealer applied; it addresses the fact that the power to the front panels goes through a couple of small connector pins, and this was insufficient, so direct power connections are added). Patches re-loaded, and unit put on burn-in test for a week.
Can you by chance provide more pictures on how to do the wire modification? I can’t find any solid directions anywhere online on how to fix my Juno from continually dropping into manual mode.
Its Roland FCO 100213, and the FCO doc is http://www.synthfool.com/docs/Roland/Roland_Service_bulletins/Roland_JUNO-106_100213_11171983.gif
The above doc does not show the exact steps, and I do not have pics to hand. Basically there is a diode on the power supply board that sits next to the power out connector and is raised from the board. It has 0v on one end, and +5v on the other. Look at the schematic for board B and you will see these power signals coming in via a connector (one rail has 3 pins, the other one). What you do is to run and lash to the loom power carrying wires from either end of the diode to the circuit board that are hard soldered so that the connector pins are jumped around. Be careful as if you get it wrong you are going to do damage. Once you have identified the pins on board B you can use an ohmeter to check continuity to the diode in order to make sure you have it right.
Before you do this though make sure it is the reason it is dropping into manual mode by wiggling the suspect connector. It is VERY common for the Juno-60/106 to be dropping into edit mode due to a bad slider (gently rock the slider shaft left/right).